Rwanda. A country where the first thing that comes to mind when people hear the name: the horrific, tragic genocide of twenty years ago. Atrocities should not be forgotten, but we know that people and places are resilient and they evolve, that life moves on.
The “Land of a Thousand Hills”, “Singapore of Africa” or “Switzerland of Africa.” Whichever analogy you choose, the meaning is clear: order, cleanliness, calm, rules enforced and picturesque landscapes. To a surprising degree.
Upon entering the country, you will find rolling hill after rolling hill covered in farmland or tea plantations that make way for dense jungles, vast lakes, and massive volcanoes topped with snow. It’s one of the greenest and hilliest places, the scenery so beautiful and the surroundings cleaner than anywhere else in Africa, and much of the rest of the world, for that matter.
This is an image of Rwanda vastly different than what most people imagine — with genocide, chaos, and lawlessness still in mind. To rebuild a country after an atrocity like the genocide, where 100 days in the spring of 1994 left more than one million Rwandans dead (approximately 14% of the population), a society that hoped to recover at all might need a sense of security and stability. In some cases, order and rules can help achieve this. With stability – and an eye to human rights as a basis of discourse — reconciliation and rebuilding can occur.
In Rwanda, the legend of Dian Fossey lives on – the American primatologist famous for her groundbreaking work with the mountain gorillas of Rwanda before her mysterious murder at her mountain-top research centre in 1985. Last December marked the 30th anniversary of her death.
Catching a glimpse into her intimate life is a fitting introduction to your Rwanda gorilla trekking experience.
Gorilla Trekking in Rwanda
Gorilla trekking only takes place in the DRC, Uganda, and Rwanda. With only 800 gorillas left in the wild, it’s a rare opportunity to see this majestic primate up close. If you won’t be going to Uganda or the DRC, however, consider spending the money to do this. Seeing wild gorillas is one of the top travel experiences you can do.
Out of the three countries, gorilla trekking is most expensive in Rwanda, where 300 of them inhabit Volcanoes National Park.
So why pay 1550 USD for a gorilla trekking permit that would have cost 500 USD in neighbouring Uganda, where you can track chimpanzees and visit Lake Bunyonyi just days before crossing the border into Rwanda? (It’s worth noting too that last year, Ugandan permits were reduced to 350 USD during the wet season in April and May.)
Four reasons:
- Generally speaking, the trek in Rwanda is less physically demanding. Having said that, there’s no way to predict where the gorillas will be in the forest on any given day. The higher up on the hills they are, the more arduous the journey will be.
- There is less foliage in Rwanda, which means better visibility. The forest in Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is denser in vegetation, making observation and photography more challenging than in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park, which is partly covered in bamboo — tall, narrow poles that are less likely to obstruct one’s view.
- Volcanoes National Park is a mere 2.5-hour drive on decent roads from the airport in Kigali, Rwanda’s capital. Bwindi, however, is 10 hours by car from the international airport in Entebbe (where one flies into to reach Uganda’s capital city, Kampala). As an alternative, a two-hour charter flight can be taken from Entebbe to Bwindi but that would negate what one would save from buying a gorilla trekking permit in Uganda instead of Rwanda.
- Rwanda is an intriguing destination in itself. From the country’s tragic history of genocide to the natural beauty found in places like Lake Kivu and Akagera National Park, Rwanda is multifaceted — and often misunderstood. It’s about a lot more than gorillas.
The fee for a permit in Rwanda may seem outrageous to be in the company of gorillas for just one hour, but protecting both the most endangered primates in the world and the communities that surround them is a costly endeavour. Your dollars will be put to good use.
The experience was worth it. Every. Single. Penny.
The Trek
Ruhengeri (also known as Musanze), a two-hour, scenic drive from Kigali, is the town in northwestern Rwanda that serves as the gateway to the Virunga Mountains, an area shared with Uganda and the DRC. Rwanda’s portion of the mountain range is called Volcanoes National Park, where its most famous wild residents live.
Ready with your daypacks and bagged lunches, jittery with anticipation, you will be driven to the headquarters of Volcanoes National Park by your guide at 6:30am the following morning, arriving just 30 minutes later.
The view of the Virunga Mountains from the headquarters of Volcanoes National Park is sepctacular. You will spend the first half-hour on relatively flat terrain, passing through verdant farmland and the rural communities that are allocated 10% of the gorilla tourism revenue to fund local initiatives (the other 90% goes towards conservation).
But upon reaching the entrance to the bamboo forest, the course will take a different turn. The pace is manageable, but the steep inclines test your strength and stamina as you make the arduous ascent with your walking sticks, leaving you breathless (at an altitude that can reach 8,200 feet, this is normal). You can hire a porter to assist you on the journey, to help pull you up the slopes and carry your backpack of camera equipment. Hopefully you will have a day of clear skies as the climb can be even more strenuous with rain and muddy, slippery hills.
If you are lucky you won’t have a long walk to see the gorillas. When you finally do see them, silence will fall among your group of trekkers. Spines will tingle. A transcendental sense of wonder will rise from deep within you.
With their machetes, the guides will slash away at the obstructing vegetation to improve your visibility. The gorillas didn’t seem to mind. The silverback, the patriarch of the troop, is a behemoth — intimidating even as he rests peacefully.
But the fear quickly subsides as you watch restless youngsters climb from their mother’s shoulders onto the silverback in exactly the same way your relatives may have done as toddlers with their own parents. Does this sound like anthropormophization? Maybe. But these apes — which share 98% of our DNA — simply are extraordinarily, unbelievably human-like.
For a moment, you will question whether these mysterious, fuzzy black titans of the forest are real. How did they evolve from other primates? Does our evolutionary history make them our cousins? Do they have the same thoughts as we do?
The fact is we are connected. Wonderfully, profoundly connected.
The gorillas huddled together, while aware of your presence, seem indifferent to your movements until one of the babies tumbles out of his mother’s arms to investigate his visitors. Curious and playful, they roll and fumble about as the adults look on with watchful eyes.
Distance has to be maintained between you and your black-furred relatives, but the rule doesn’t stop the apes from approaching you. When the mother suddenly moves towards your group, her son hanging off her arm until he loses his grip, you will feel a jolt of trepidation. But the guides will confidently respond with gorilla language — a discerning series of grunts — and she will retreat.
You will observe the gorillas for what seems a few minutes and just like that, your hour comes to an end.
And then you’ll understand why Dian Fossey couldn’t, after 18 years, pull herself away from the precious subjects of her study that she so fiercely protected and championed. To be in the presence of mountain gorillas in their natural habitat, deep in the forests of central Africa, is a rare, mystifying encounter few people have had the privilege to experience.
What You Should Know:
- Permits cost 750 USD for one hour with the mountain gorillas and should be booked well in advance, especially during high season. If you travel with us, however, the purchase of the permit will be handled for you.
- When to go: April, May and November are the rainy season months, which can make hiking muddier and therefore more demanding. Gorilla trekking is most popular during the dry season: December-February and June-September.
- Rwanda is both a yellow fever and malaria zone. Be sure to get your vaccination and medication
- What to bring: your passport, worn-in hiking boots, long-sleeve shirt and pants (a short-sleeve shirt and shorts will expose your skin to ants and the prickly nettle), gardening gloves to protect your hands as you push the nettle away and grasp at branches during steep climbs (not a must but they came in handy), insect repellent, water and a bagged lunch.
- Consider waterproof gear during the rainy season: hiking boots (it can get very muddy), jacket, pants and backpack cover. An additional advantage of a waterproof jacket and pants is that they will provide a strong barrier between you and the sharp nettle.
- It’s advisable to tuck your pants into your boots or thick socks to prevent ants from crawling up your legs. Alternatively, a pair of gaiters will do the job.
- Fitness level: Depending on where they are in the forest, you may find the gorillas after one hour of hiking or three. It’s a crapshoot, so it’s best to prepare for a long climb with sharp inclines. The pace, however, is moderate and broken up with breaks.
- You should not trek if you have a cold or flu. Because they are so closely related to humans but do not have the same immune system we do, gorillas can easily contract a human infection that could put their lives in danger.
- To make the trek easier, walking sticks are made available at no additional cost before the journey. For a fee of 10 USD, you can also hire a porter to carry your belongings and help you up the hills. Not only is their service worth the money, hiring a porter directly contributes to the local economy.
- During your hour with the gorillas: No eating or drinking is allowed; a distance of 23 ft. must be kept between you and the gorillas (although they may approach you); while the gorillas are habituated to human observers, they are still wild — keep your voice low and do not make sudden movements that might be interpreted as a sign of aggression.
- Photography: Capture clear close-ups with a fast telephoto lens, which is important in a dense, heavily shaded forest where flash photography is not permitted. Increasing your ISO will also help you get your shots in the poor light, especially when the gorillas are on the move. Remember to bring something rain-proof – like a dry bag to protect your gear (note: Rwanda has implemented a country-wide ban on plastic bags).
Rwanda, more than mountain gorillas
Gorilla trekking isn’t the only thing to do and see in Rwanda. Rwanda is a small country that doesn’t take much time to traverse, but there is still a wealth of activities.
Most travelers come to Rwanda to see the mountain gorillas at Volcanoes National Park and leave, often to nearby countries as part of a broader trip in the region. This is really a shame as the country has some incredibly beautiful landscape, including lakes, volcanos and mountains. Not to mention the opportunity to visit local markets and villages to get a feel for everyday life in Rwanda.
These are some of the best things to do when in Rwanda:
Kigali
Kigali will impress you with its cosmopolitan cuisine and cafes, the sidewalks and street lights – a rarity in East Africa – and the super cool arts and design scene. Spend a few days experiencing the local culture and cuisinse, as well as exploring a bit of the history.
Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre
The Kigali Genocide Memorial Centre is the most popular attraction in Kigali, and for good reason. It’s very well-done, and helps to explain the Rwanda you see today while addressing the dark past.
The Rwandan genocide of 1994 is one of the bloodiest mass acts of violence in modern history with an estimate 1-2 million people losing their lives in a span of only 100 days from April to July.
The struggle was borne of a complicated past. Rwanda changed hands a few times before finally ending up under Belgian rule. During the colonial period, the Belgian administration applied contemporary Darwinian theories, which gave the Tutsi minority a favorable position. This essentially laid the foundations for the genocide to follow by creating inequality amongst the locals, in which the Hutus rebelled against the Tutsi and Belgian elite. The conflict finally ended in with the aid of the United Nations Security Council.
Since then Rwanda has made strides in unity, with Rwandans identifying themselves as one culture rather than Hutus and Tutsis, has become the #1 country for the amount of women in politics, and has implemented the Vision 2020 plan which has helped bring over 1 million Rwandans out of poverty. Obviously this is an incredibly abridged history which cannot possibly encompass all of the complexities and happenings; which makes the genocide center a worthy stop if you’re interested in learning more.
Hôtel des Mille Collines
The famous inspiration for the Hotel Rwanda, and a place of refuge for nearly 1300 people during the genocide, the Hôtel des Mille Collines is now a place to ‘see and be seen’ in Kigali.
It’s a 4-star hotel which you can choose to stay in when in Kigali. Alternatively, it’s free to walk into the lobby, just $5 to hang out by the pool, which is a popular daytime activity, or just grab a Virunga Mist beer poolside.
Chimp Trekking in Nyungwe Forest National Park
Located in the South West corner of Rwanda, Nyungwe National Park is an untouched natural rainforest that is filled with exciting biodiversity. Covering over 1000 square kilometres, Nyungwe is surely one of the world’s most beautiful and pristine mountain rainforests. It’s believed to be one of Africa’s oldest forests, staying green even through the Ice Age, which explains its diversity.
Home to habituated chimpanzees and 12 other primates species (including a 400-strong troop of habituated Ruwenzori Black & White Colobus), it’s also a birder’s paradise with over 300 species, including 16 endemics, and is home to 75 different species of mammal.
This majestic rainforest is filled with nature and wildlife experiences for you to emerge yourself in. Hiking or even biking the beautiful terrain, tracking the famous chimpanzees, experiencing the canopy walk, witnessing beautiful birds, relaxing by waterfalls are just a glimpse of activities that Nyungwe offers.
Sounds and views collaborate to create a one-of-a-kind wildlife experience. Exploring through the forest, travellers will witness the lush green mountains and cooling mist in a landscape that won’t be soon forgotten. Cultural activities are also available around the forest.
Chimpanzee trekking is a must-do when in Rwanda considering that they’re only found in central and west Africa and sadly, their numbers are dwindling.
The trek starts at 5am from the visitor’s center just outside the park where you’ll pick up your guide and drive for another hour through the tea plantations while the sun rises. From there, grab a walking stick, tuck your socks into your hiking boots to avoid bites from the cutter ants, take a snack and start the hike through the jungle. The trackers will have already been in the jungle searching out the chimp families, and will radio your guide with their whereabouts as you progress.
Once your group finds them, you will encounter them running around you through the forest, calling to each other and swinging from the trees. It is quite the sight! Though you will have to move quickly to find them and stay with them, it is worth it to see a family hanging out together, eating fruit, and enjoying the beautiful jungle.
Lake Kivu
Rwanda’s western side is bounded by Lake Kivu, one of a string of huge freshwater lakes which lie along Africa’s Great Rift Valley. Dominating the border between Rwanda and the DRC (Democratic Republic of Congo); Lake Kivu is Rwanda’s largest lake, and the sixth largest lake in Africa.
The real joy of this area is driving between the towns, and it’s a lovely option for a slower route between Nyungwe Forest National Park and Volcanoes National Park. The road gently curves back and forth as it weaves through hills and mountains beside the lake from Gisenyi all the way to Cyangugu, with Kibuye almost at its centre point. Every corner produces another gorgeous view. Eucalyptus trees line the road, while every inch of the hills seems to be terraced with bananas. Villagers smile and wave, and children constantly call out “Abuzungu!” as you drive past (the Kinyarwanda term for white people, like “Muzungu” in Swahili). You’ll end up with hands tired from waving, and feel like royalty at the end of the trip!
Lake Kivu’s three main towns are roughly 3-4 hours apart from each other. Spend the days on Lake Kivu watching the sunsets and sunrises or taking a little boat tour, it is so relaxing and beautiful. What’s not to love about something that looks this beautiful?
Kibuye (Karongi)
About 100km south of Gisenyi, Kibuye (also known by its new name Karongi) is probably the prettiest of Lake Kivu’s towns. It’s a verdant, tropical spot surrounded by hills covered in eucalyptus and pine. If you’re visiting in August, you may catch thousands of yellow-billed kites here flying over Lake Kivu on their annual migration. Most of Kibuye’s hotels are in beautiful locations overlooking the lake and facing the sunset.
What to do in Kibuye (Karongi)
From Kibuye (Karongi) you can take boat trips on Lake Kivu to nearby islands: Napoleon Island with its colony of fruit bats and Amahoro Island (aptly known as “One bar island” because all it has on it is one bar).
It’s also possible to visit Kibuye’s genocide memorial church, with brightly coloured stained-glass windows, in a quiet location on a hill above Lake Kivu. Despite a tragic history, it’s a place for peaceful contemplation.
In Kibuye, the best activity is taking a boat around the various islands for 4-5 hours, stopping at a few of them and swimming, hiking through the guava trees and watching the bats, and marveling in awe at the beautiful lake.
Gisenyi (Rubavu)
Gisenyi (also referred to by its new name Rubavu) is a large town spread over several hills on the northern edge of Lake Kivu. Once a colonial beach resort of note, Gisenyi’s waterfront is lined with fading old mansions, some decent hotels including some of international standard and trendy bars on the lakeshore; ideal for a sundowner cocktail. Nearby Rubona is also home to some pretty lakeside hotels.
What to do in Gisenyi (Rubavu)
There is a pleasant public beach on Gisenyi’s lakeshore but it can get quite busy, particularly at weekends. Some hotels have private beaches and water sport options.
Driving north from Gisenyi (Rubavu), the Imbabazi Orphanage founded by American Rosamund Halsey Carr, is a beautiful memorial to a remarkable lady. On returning to Rwanda after the genocide at the age of 82, she transformed her ransacked house into an orphanage for survivors and over 400 orphans have since called this place home. Sitting among colourful gardens, the house looks like an English country cottage, complete with an aging Labrador. Imbabazi is planning to develop a cultural centre in Carr’s memory and runs a variety of projects for local people, continuing to support its former orphans.
Another popular activity around here is the coffee plantation tours, and it’s also the jumping off point for those who are interested in heading into the Democratic Republic of Congo to see the gorillas and volcanoes there.
Spend time at Calafia Cafe, which anyone who loves healthy food and has spent a while in Africa will truly appreciate. The beetroot sandwiches and home-grown kale are sublime!
Cyangugu (Rusizi)
At the southern end of Lake Kivu, Cyangugu (pronounced ‘Shangugu’ – its new name of Rusizi is easier to pronounce!) is an old border town whose fading façades tell of its past as a vital trading gateway. It makes for a convenient base if you want to combine a stay on Lake Kivu with Nyungwe Forest National Park, which is only 45 minutes away, although there are limited hotel options.
Gisenyi (Rubavu) and Cyangugu (Rusizi) are both close to the DRC border so it’s wise to check the FCO’s travel advice before visiting either.
Akagera National Park
Akagera National Park is Rwanda’s safari destination, Set at a relatively low altitude on the border with Tanzania, Akagera National Park could scarcely be more different in mood to the breezy cultivated hills that characterise much of Rwanda. Dominated scenically by the labyrinth of swamps and lakes that follow the meandering course of the Akagera River, the most remote source of the Nile, this is an archetypal African savannah landscape of tangled acacia woodland interspersed with open grassland.
Akagera is, above all, big game country! Herds of elephant and buffalo emerge from the woodland to drink at the lakes, while lucky visitors might stumble across a spotted hyena or even a stray lion. Giraffe and zebra amble through the savannah, and more than a dozen types of antelope inhabit the park, most commonly the handsome chestnut-coated impala, but also the diminutive oribi and secretive bushbuck, as well as the ungainly tsessebe and the world’s largest antelope, the statuesque cape eland.
The most significant news this quarter is the translocation of eighteen Eastern black rhinoceroses to Akagera, and Rwanda, over the first week in May, ten years after the last individual was documented in the country.
Camping alongside the picturesque lakes of Akagera is a truly mystical introduction to the wonders of the African bush. Pods of 50 hippopotami grunt and splutter throughout the day while outsized crocodiles soak up the sun with their vast jaws menacingly agape. Magically, the air is torn apart by the unforgettable high duetting of a pair of fish eagles, asserting their status as the avian monarchs of Africa’s waterways. Lining the lakes are some of the continent’s densest concentrations of water birds, while the connecting marshes are the haunt of the endangered and exquisite papyrus gonolek, and the bizarre shoebill stork – the latter perhaps the most eagerly sought of all African birds.
First country to ban plastic bags
Border officials will rifle through your bags and remove / confiscate any plastic bags found backpacks. This is a bit of an inconvenience, but you will be happy to forfeit a few bags for a worthwhile cause. If you’ve ever seen a landscape swamped in plastic bags, you’ll understand what I mean. And you’ll understand why Rwanda takes the approach they do. So it is that Rwanda is the first country in the world to ban plastic bags (2006). And they take it seriously.
As you travel through the country, you’ll notice that it is remarkably — and quite beautifully — plastic bag free. And when you buy something, the store provides you a paper or woven bag instead.
A nationwide plastic bag ban. It’s possible, and it’s an inspiration.
Umuganda: Community Days
On the last Saturday of each month, all Rwandans are called upon for Umaganda (meaning “contribution”), a national day of mandatory community service. Rwandans are expected to show up to contribute to public projects, to help build and clean. If you don’t show up, you can expect a fine. In addition to helping to keep the country clean and organized, community service days are also meant to strengthen social ties by encouraging all members across society to work together, to know both your neighbors and local government officials better. While this practice has been in place for over a century, it now plays a particularly important role in promoting unity and cooperation in Rwanda’s post-genocide culture and society.
Markets are where the action is
Although Rwanda may aim to be the Switzerland or Singapore of Africa, it’s still Africa. And its markets are where you can still find some action and lingering bits of refreshing chaos. Piles of everything from beautiful multi-colored broad beans to carved chunks of cassava root stir the senses.
In the open air markets visited, you will find people aren’t especially accustomed to seeing or interacting with wazungu (the plural of mzungu or “white person”). At first, locals will appear to be a bit wary or uncertain of you, but once you ask a few questions about what they are selling and how they consume or use them — herbs, root vegetables, beans, sorghum, etc. – they will open up and the fun will ensue.
Note: Knowing how to speak a bit of French definitely helps, particularly among the older crowd.
About Origins Safaris
At Origins Safaris we are passionate about wildlife, cultural heritage, adventure and exploration. We customize each and every safari to your personal requirements and expectations, ensuring an exclusive, unique and authentic experience every time.
Origins Safaris is a family business, founded in 1963 by Don and Margaret Turner. It is managed today by two subsequent generations of the family, and predominantly by Don’s son, Steve. We are so much more than just a travel broker – our years of experience, professionalism and reliability means that we go the all important extra mile, to make sure your dream safari is safe, memorable, educational and most of all great fun. We are renowned for our meticulous safari planning from start to finish, and the highest standards of natural history.
Origins Safaris provide that crucial “sound advice and impeccable service” so seldom found by other companies. We have 50+ years of authentic African safari experience and the know-how to make your trip run as smoothly as possible. Use our website (www.originsafaris.com) to find the trips that inspire you and add them to your bucket list. As you use the arrows to browse through the various countries we do safaris to, bear in mind that the further you go into the website the more adventurous, specialized and remote the trips become. We are offering you a lifetime of travel, beginning with the easiest and ending with the hardest as you find your Africa feet and wish to do more exciting trips. Once you have browsed our website, send us your bucket list and we will link you directly to some relevant and extensive sources of information and pertinent itinerary advice. From there, we can then start your specific itinerary design.
If you would like to travel to Rwanda specifically and experience some or all of the amazing attractions highlighted above, please contact us on the following: https://originsafaris.com/mountain-gorillas/
Origins Safaris – Authentic African Experiences Since 1963


















STEVE TURNER
SELEMPO EDWIN LESOINE
STANLEY KARITHI
ZACHARY METHU MBUTHIA
PETER LIECH ADEDE
FELIX WAMBUGU
JOSHUA SONKOYO
HENRY MIWANI











